GILGIT: Pakistani climbers have opened a new route on Broad Peak, marking what organizers describe as a historic first for the country’s mountaineering community.
Broad Peak is an 8,051-meter (26,414 ft) mountain in the Karakoram range of Gilgit-Baltistan. Located just 5 miles from K2, it is the 12th-highest peak in the world
The route, named the Mirza Ali Legacy Route, was opened above Camp 3 on the 8,047m peak in the Karakoram range after three days of work in deep snow, mixed rock and snow terrain, and steep rocky sections.
The team was led by mountaineer Mirza Ali, founder of Karakorum Expeditions.
According to the expedition company, the summit push began at 02:00 local time on 19 July, with climbers reaching the main summit at 21:55 after climbing for more than 24 hours in continuous snowfall and severe weather.
The team fixed more than 1,600 metres of rope and installed permanent rock pitons to secure the new line.
Organisers say the new route is shorter, more direct and safer than the traditional line through Broad Peak’s “V Section”, reducing exposure to avalanche and rockfall hazards.
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They estimate climbers could reach the summit from Camp 3 in seven to eight hours and descend in two to three hours under normal conditions.
The route was unanimously named after Mirza Ali in recognition of his 16 years of work in Pakistan’s mountaineering community, including training young climbers and organising national and international expeditions.
Speaking after the ascent, Mirza Ali said the achievement demonstrated the technical ability and determination of Pakistani climbers and called for greater investment in adventure tourism and mountaineering training.
He said Pakistan had significant untapped potential in the mountain economy, particularly in Gilgit-Baltistan.
International climbers involved with the expedition also praised the achievement.
Argentine mountaineer Juan Toro described the route opening as a “historic moment in Pakistani mountaineering”, while Hungarian climber David Klein called it a “crazy, genius route” and commended the team’s resilience and technical skill.
The summit team included Mirza Ali, Ahmed Baig, Rizwan Dad, Waqar Ali, Nawaz Ali Khan, Zaman Karim, Juan Toro and David Klein. Expedition leaders said all major anchor points had been recorded using Garmin inReach GPS waypoints to support future route management and emergency planning.
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